Green Giant Buttress - Dreamer Direct/Safe Sex

6/11/2010
Dreamer Direct/Safe Sex 5.8
Green Giant Buttress - Darrington, Washington


Looking at the Green Giant Buttress, our route follows the water streak second to left and into the dark corner above.

The original plan was for Curt and I to do an introductory climb together after meeting on Cascadeclimbers.com, an online climbing community. We discussed and planned on heading North to Squamish for a day trip. We watched the weather and hoped for the best but as the day of our trip grew nearer we started hashing out back up plans. Various locations were discussed hoping, willing to drive nearly any distance for good weather. Vantage, Mazama, Darrington what would it be?

The day arrived, wet and with a not too positive forecast. Curt picked me up at my place. We still had not committed to a location but decided to head East on highway 20 figuring that if the rain had not stopped by Rockport we could head to Mazama, if need be Darrington it would be. The rain did not let up. We kept driving up the highway hoping for a change in the weather but our wishing was not making anything happen. We talked about this and that and took the chance to swap stories of past climbs and pasttimes. We were getting close to Rockport and a decision had to be made. We discussed the merits of each option. I mentioned that my last climb in Darrington was on wet slabs and it was not that bad. As the turn approached we called it, took a leap of faith and turned onto highway 530. It was decided. Darrington it would be. The rest of the driving went by quickly and soon we were soon pushing the limits of Curts car, going up the logging road and past the Three o'Clock trailhead. We parked the car and things were very damp, but the rain had actually stopped.

We grabbed our gear and hit the trail. Curt and I made great time and soon came to the main creek crossing. We each found a route that looked good to us and made our way across the raging creek.Continuing up the trail we soon came to the next objective the "tree tunnel". Here we made our way under a lush wet canopy of slide alder following a mostly free of running water creek bed. After a few minutes of this travel we came out in the open and started scrambling up the approach slabs and working our way generally climbers right looking for the direct start for the route Safe Sex rated 5.8.


A view of the approach slabs covered in running water



Some lingering snow right after emerging from the tree tunnel


We found what we thought looked like a good place to go ahead and break out the gear. Curt and I readied ourselves, grabbed windbreakers and headed up the route. I took the first lead and ran in out on some easy although wet climbing. I moved up around forty feet and traversed right looking for some sign that we were actually where we thought we should be to no avail. I decided to move down and right and then continue upward movement. I did so and moved out on to a small but steep and wet section of rock. I climbed about fifteen feet up and girth hitched a sling around a small cedar bush growing out of the rock. Not the best anchor but it would do. I continued and came out of the brushy section and on to a fairly good sized ledge where I stopped and signalled to Curt to get ready to come up. Curt made his moves and quickly reached my stance. We quckly discussed our position and we decided we were still low and not quite on route. We shortened the rope and moved out together, Curt leading the way. Soon we were at the proper startof the Dreamer Direct and Curt prepared to lead out on the official first pitch. Curt is a smooth, methodical climber and it was fun to watch as he easily took the rope out and climbed the pitch. At one point about a third of the way up Curt turned to tell me he was using a runner on a cedar he knew was marginal but better than nothing. I followed the pitch and found it to be challenging under the conditions as well as getting my climbing head going. I was impressed with how smooth Curt had climbed it and knew that today was going to be a fun climb with a competent partner.

I led the next pitch witch was still fairly low angle and fun and easy climbing. I stopped at the bolted anchor and brought Curt up. Conditions are improving and the rock is drying out. We are really enjoying this climb. We were now at the top of the second pitch of Dreamer Direct. Curt took the sharp end of the rope and left the belay heading out climbers right an up towards Safe Sex. I followed Curt and found this to be yet another enjoyable pitch. I lead the next section which was technically our fourth pitch and the third pitch of Safe Sex. I had some route finding trouble on this pitch where I found myself taking the route topo map a little to seriously. The topo I had showed that I need to folllow the bolt line to the third bolt and then traverse up and right to a belay station. I move up to the third bolt and started off right and up but was instantly in territory that did not seem right and offered little in the way of protection. I kept willing it to go and was soon on an ugly wet brushy corner and working out and way from my last piece of gear when I looked and saw the anchors up and to my left about twenty five feet away. It seemed like a long way and did not look easy. I had to dig deep and make some committing moves to get across but I eventually made it and brought Curt up to the station.


Looking down the route while Curt climbs up to join me.

Curt took the next pitch and in his style led it smoothly and confidently. I followed and was amused when it turned out the topo was right on this pitch. There was a missing bolt hanger and Curt had used the time tested method of making do in this situation, he used a wired nut to attach the runner to the empty bolt. It works but it never looks like the ideal. When I got to the top I was feeling the day and it was my turn up to to lead.



Curt on Route

There were five pitches remaining to reach the true summit of Green Giant Buttress. We discussed how far we would go this day. It was decided we would go one more and that I would hand my lead over to Curt. I was glad to follow but I did not feel I had it in me to lead any more,even though the open corner ahead looked great.

Curt led up and moved through the initial corner easily. About forty feet up Curt needed to make the move out right on onto the steep face covered in a broken veneer of quartz that had some fantastically positive but crimpy holds. Curt moved through this area and around the corner finishing his pitch. I followed this pitch and was glad I had given it over. I found it to be steep and sustained. The moves out onto the face were awesome. The holds were there and so was the exposure all the way down the previous five pitches we had climbed. I took a slightly different variation here than Curt. Where he was able to make the moves straight up the steep section I worked up and right to a very rounded rib the required some seemingly impossible to me friction holds with my hand and a difficult mantle like move. This was a great pitch and I am glad to have at least gotten this far on this route.

It was here that we began our descent via six rappells and some exposed downclimbing. We returned to our packs grabbed some food and started the hike out. The hike seemed like forever and the trail back to the car seemed a lot longer with the fatigue of the days climbing on us rather than the anticipation of the climb to come.

This was my first time back to Green Giant in about five years. I definitely will not wait that long to go back and finish the climb. It was nice to climb with someone new and observe some different ways of doing things. I picked up some good things from watching Curt and look forward to climbing with him again in the future and learning more.


Curt on the approach

I boneheadedley left my camera at the bottom this trip.
I have video but need to edit before posting.