Exfoliation Dome - Westward Ho

6/27/2010
Westward Ho 5.9
Exfoliation Dome - Darrington, Washington

Smedley and I had been discussing route options for the upcoming weekend and the weather was looking great. We pondered ideas and threw suggestions out to one another looking for a common goal that would get us both inspired.
We narrowed it down fairly quickly to some kind of multi pitch granite excursion in Darrington, which seems to be the trend for us this season. Smedley mentioned a trip to the top of Exfoliation Dome and possibly trying a new to us route called Westward Ho. I was more than happy to oblige his request for said route as I had heard from Curt while climbing on the Green Giant Buttress that Westward Ho was a worthy route on the lower or main four pitches which he had done and recommended. So it was decided, we would stay at the trailhead Friday night and climb on Saturday morning.


A close friend and long time climbing partner decided to join us on this trip and met us at the trailhead Friday. We all retired fairly early and arose Saturday morning to a quick coffee brew and breakfast and then onto the real business of the day, climbing.

The climb starts out as all climbs on this side of Exfoliation Dome do, by walking and scrambling the 1500 vertical feet of elevation up the Granite Sidewalk to the base of the wall. The Granite Sidewalk is one heck of a feature and can be seen from all over the valley as a huge gray tongue of rock stretching from the near vertical upper walls of Exfoliation Dome all the way down to the valley and the old logging road. The "Sidewalk" is very exposed in places and a slip here would be undesirable to say the least as consequences could be devastating.

A small section of the Granite Sidewalk looking up toward our route


Smedley and Rodney make progress up the Granite Sidewalk


A great view of Green Giant Buttress and some of the awesome flora



Looking back across the valley on the approach we were constantly rewarded with ever expanding views of the surrounding area and crags. When I thought it could get no better we were treated to some clouds moving through which just added a whole new layer of texture to the sky, making a great view fantastic.

Green Giant Buttress


Three O'clock Rock and the Comb Buttress


A wild cloud formation


The valley, clouds and Green Giant Buttress



We finally reached our route and looked around a bit, relaxing on the large grassy ledge at the base and prepared ourselves and gear for the upcoming goodness.
We started our climb a little to the right of the actual route and climbed diagonally up and left to reach the route proper at the top of the first pitch.
The photo below shows a foreshortened view of our route, which goes to the shady corner on the left side of the frame and continues up the corner system on slabs for four pitches to some broken ground and then four or so more pitches up to the skyline.

Westward Ho follows the corner on the left up to the skyline



Smedley takes the beginning pitch



Following Smedleys lead



My turn on the sharp end and the blank slabs ahead


Almost done with the pitch and looking down at my buddies



Smedley following the third pitch



Making the moves





Friction on clean white granite



We reached the top of the ridge after a very long and hot day in the sun. We had all agreed at the start of the day that six o'clock was the turn around time. We reached the top at five forty five. Smedley and I discussed options for continuing the last forty feet or so to the actual summit but I for one was wiped out and Smedley was none to eager to climb the last section as it looked a little spicy and the traverse alternative on the back side hung on an overhanging wall that fell hundreds of feet if not more to the rocks below. It took all I had to belly crawl over to the edge and try to snap some photos. I wanted nothing to do with it.
We decided to have our summit beer here and call it good.
Then began the long descent via rappel and downclimb.

The top of one of many rappels. The Granite Sidewalk is the tongue of rock that dissapears into the green below.


Goofing off waiting for us to rappel


We made it to the cars somewhere around eight o'clock or so exhausted and sunburned but happy to have had such great success on such a fantastic climb.

Green Giant Buttress - Dreamer Direct/Safe Sex

6/11/2010
Dreamer Direct/Safe Sex 5.8
Green Giant Buttress - Darrington, Washington


Looking at the Green Giant Buttress, our route follows the water streak second to left and into the dark corner above.

The original plan was for Curt and I to do an introductory climb together after meeting on Cascadeclimbers.com, an online climbing community. We discussed and planned on heading North to Squamish for a day trip. We watched the weather and hoped for the best but as the day of our trip grew nearer we started hashing out back up plans. Various locations were discussed hoping, willing to drive nearly any distance for good weather. Vantage, Mazama, Darrington what would it be?

The day arrived, wet and with a not too positive forecast. Curt picked me up at my place. We still had not committed to a location but decided to head East on highway 20 figuring that if the rain had not stopped by Rockport we could head to Mazama, if need be Darrington it would be. The rain did not let up. We kept driving up the highway hoping for a change in the weather but our wishing was not making anything happen. We talked about this and that and took the chance to swap stories of past climbs and pasttimes. We were getting close to Rockport and a decision had to be made. We discussed the merits of each option. I mentioned that my last climb in Darrington was on wet slabs and it was not that bad. As the turn approached we called it, took a leap of faith and turned onto highway 530. It was decided. Darrington it would be. The rest of the driving went by quickly and soon we were soon pushing the limits of Curts car, going up the logging road and past the Three o'Clock trailhead. We parked the car and things were very damp, but the rain had actually stopped.

We grabbed our gear and hit the trail. Curt and I made great time and soon came to the main creek crossing. We each found a route that looked good to us and made our way across the raging creek.Continuing up the trail we soon came to the next objective the "tree tunnel". Here we made our way under a lush wet canopy of slide alder following a mostly free of running water creek bed. After a few minutes of this travel we came out in the open and started scrambling up the approach slabs and working our way generally climbers right looking for the direct start for the route Safe Sex rated 5.8.


A view of the approach slabs covered in running water



Some lingering snow right after emerging from the tree tunnel


We found what we thought looked like a good place to go ahead and break out the gear. Curt and I readied ourselves, grabbed windbreakers and headed up the route. I took the first lead and ran in out on some easy although wet climbing. I moved up around forty feet and traversed right looking for some sign that we were actually where we thought we should be to no avail. I decided to move down and right and then continue upward movement. I did so and moved out on to a small but steep and wet section of rock. I climbed about fifteen feet up and girth hitched a sling around a small cedar bush growing out of the rock. Not the best anchor but it would do. I continued and came out of the brushy section and on to a fairly good sized ledge where I stopped and signalled to Curt to get ready to come up. Curt made his moves and quickly reached my stance. We quckly discussed our position and we decided we were still low and not quite on route. We shortened the rope and moved out together, Curt leading the way. Soon we were at the proper startof the Dreamer Direct and Curt prepared to lead out on the official first pitch. Curt is a smooth, methodical climber and it was fun to watch as he easily took the rope out and climbed the pitch. At one point about a third of the way up Curt turned to tell me he was using a runner on a cedar he knew was marginal but better than nothing. I followed the pitch and found it to be challenging under the conditions as well as getting my climbing head going. I was impressed with how smooth Curt had climbed it and knew that today was going to be a fun climb with a competent partner.

I led the next pitch witch was still fairly low angle and fun and easy climbing. I stopped at the bolted anchor and brought Curt up. Conditions are improving and the rock is drying out. We are really enjoying this climb. We were now at the top of the second pitch of Dreamer Direct. Curt took the sharp end of the rope and left the belay heading out climbers right an up towards Safe Sex. I followed Curt and found this to be yet another enjoyable pitch. I lead the next section which was technically our fourth pitch and the third pitch of Safe Sex. I had some route finding trouble on this pitch where I found myself taking the route topo map a little to seriously. The topo I had showed that I need to folllow the bolt line to the third bolt and then traverse up and right to a belay station. I move up to the third bolt and started off right and up but was instantly in territory that did not seem right and offered little in the way of protection. I kept willing it to go and was soon on an ugly wet brushy corner and working out and way from my last piece of gear when I looked and saw the anchors up and to my left about twenty five feet away. It seemed like a long way and did not look easy. I had to dig deep and make some committing moves to get across but I eventually made it and brought Curt up to the station.


Looking down the route while Curt climbs up to join me.

Curt took the next pitch and in his style led it smoothly and confidently. I followed and was amused when it turned out the topo was right on this pitch. There was a missing bolt hanger and Curt had used the time tested method of making do in this situation, he used a wired nut to attach the runner to the empty bolt. It works but it never looks like the ideal. When I got to the top I was feeling the day and it was my turn up to to lead.



Curt on Route

There were five pitches remaining to reach the true summit of Green Giant Buttress. We discussed how far we would go this day. It was decided we would go one more and that I would hand my lead over to Curt. I was glad to follow but I did not feel I had it in me to lead any more,even though the open corner ahead looked great.

Curt led up and moved through the initial corner easily. About forty feet up Curt needed to make the move out right on onto the steep face covered in a broken veneer of quartz that had some fantastically positive but crimpy holds. Curt moved through this area and around the corner finishing his pitch. I followed this pitch and was glad I had given it over. I found it to be steep and sustained. The moves out onto the face were awesome. The holds were there and so was the exposure all the way down the previous five pitches we had climbed. I took a slightly different variation here than Curt. Where he was able to make the moves straight up the steep section I worked up and right to a very rounded rib the required some seemingly impossible to me friction holds with my hand and a difficult mantle like move. This was a great pitch and I am glad to have at least gotten this far on this route.

It was here that we began our descent via six rappells and some exposed downclimbing. We returned to our packs grabbed some food and started the hike out. The hike seemed like forever and the trail back to the car seemed a lot longer with the fatigue of the days climbing on us rather than the anticipation of the climb to come.

This was my first time back to Green Giant in about five years. I definitely will not wait that long to go back and finish the climb. It was nice to climb with someone new and observe some different ways of doing things. I picked up some good things from watching Curt and look forward to climbing with him again in the future and learning more.


Curt on the approach

I boneheadedley left my camera at the bottom this trip.
I have video but need to edit before posting.

Beating the Weather - Three O'clock Rock

5/23/2010

Silent Running - 5.9+

Three O'clock Rock

Darrington, Washington

Smedley of the mountains and I met up last Sunday morning to head out to Darrington. As I pulled into the Food Pavillion parking lot it was still pouring rain, which it had been since I left Bellingham.

Smedley arrived and started throwing gear in my car. I told him I would help but, I did not want to get wet. We headed out 530 towards D-Town with, as Eddie Rabbit said "Those windshield wipers slappin' out a tempo. Keeping perfect rhythm with the song on the radio." About a 1/4 mile or so before the 2060 my check engine light came on....wtf.....I just kept driving determined that whatever was conspiring to keep me off the rock was not going to win.

We arrived at the trailhead in the rain, although we both swore it was lighter and should stop any minute. We shouldered packs and started walking. The trail passed quickly and we were soon staring up the slabs of the big tree routes and running water. A decision was made to have a breakfast beer under the trees and watch the rain drops. We watched rain for a good 45 minutes or so and then decided to walk around the routes a bit. So we did. An hour and a half after arriving and kicking around the idea of climbing some easy stuff under the Great Arches we decided instead to walk over to the North Buttress.

As we headed over to the North Buttress area the rain miraculously let up and we were able to look up Silent Running without raindrops falling in our eyes. I kept pushing to do the first easy pitch of Silent Running. I was eager to get on anything just so the trip was not a waste. Finally Smedley agreed and I started racking up to take the first pitch. While I was doing so I decided to grab some extra draws, in the case we decided to grab the second pitch while we were there. I left the ground with 6 cams and 6 draws. The first pitch went off easily and I quickly brought Smedley up to the stance. The rain had not come back and the first pitch had enough friction in spite of the water running down the slabs so Smedley took off on the second. About 3 bolts up Smedley came to an impass and was not able to see the next bolt, this combined with the fact that he only had 3 draws left made him decide to be lowered back to the stance. I lowered him off and he cleaned gear. I decided to take the gear and have a go of it. If nothing else I would replace the draw on the third bolt with a bail biner and head down. Once I reached Smedley's high point I looked ahead and was able to see the line. I went for it and finished the pitch. I then brought Smedley up. Upon arriving at the belay we swapped leads again and Smedley lead out on the third pitch. Again with our limited rack, he headed up, the slabs were still wet and Smedley took a few slips working the crux moves,and once again got to the third or fourth bolt (past the crux) and lowered and cleaned the gear. I took the gear and made the high point and continued to finish the pitch. Smedley met me at the belay and now the slabs were drying out very quickly. Smedley headed up and dispensed with fourth pitch quickly. As Smedley brought me up I decided that I would video this pitch. I climbed the pitch with one hand holding my camera in the other and taking the most incredible video ever taken. I was excited to share this video(that is until I got home and realized I had not hit play...damn it!). I took the fifth pitch and by now the rock was dry and all was good. Smedley and I were all smiles. When Smedley reached the belay we did a time check and considereing the rap time I had to call it a day due to obligations at home. I was bummed to have not gotten the full route as it was my first time on Silent Running but considering the way the day started I was extremely glad to get what we did. Smedley and I shared a Moose Drool at the top and began the raps. All went well and we made good time to the ground. We enjoyed some sunshine and a quick bite to eat and then headed back to the car.

When we arrived back in Arlington there was a note on Smedleys car it read: " I saw the add for your mother $6.99 per lb. I am going for a loan on Monday. Please don't sell her till you hear from me. John Wisenhiemer 1-800-623-1429". WTF that was all about I do not know.

All in all it was a great day to be out. In spite of the rain we got some pitches in and they were quality at that.

Another great day on the rock with a great friend. Isn't that what it is all about?

Enjoy some pics:

Those slabs are awfully wet -

You just follow the water streaks -

Looking up Pitch 4 -

A couple of satisfied guys -