Westward Ho 5.9
Exfoliation Dome - Darrington, Washington
Smedley and I had been discussing route options for the upcoming weekend and the weather was looking great. We pondered ideas and threw suggestions out to one another looking for a common goal that would get us both inspired.
We narrowed it down fairly quickly to some kind of multi pitch granite excursion in Darrington, which seems to be the trend for us this season. Smedley mentioned a trip to the top of Exfoliation Dome and possibly trying a new to us route called Westward Ho. I was more than happy to oblige his request for said route as I had heard from Curt while climbing on the Green Giant Buttress that Westward Ho was a worthy route on the lower or main four pitches which he had done and recommended. So it was decided, we would stay at the trailhead Friday night and climb on Saturday morning.
A close friend and long time climbing partner decided to join us on this trip and met us at the trailhead Friday. We all retired fairly early and arose Saturday morning to a quick coffee brew and breakfast and then onto the real business of the day, climbing.
The climb starts out as all climbs on this side of Exfoliation Dome do, by walking and scrambling the 1500 vertical feet of elevation up the Granite Sidewalk to the base of the wall. The Granite Sidewalk is one heck of a feature and can be seen from all over the valley as a huge gray tongue of rock stretching from the near vertical upper walls of Exfoliation Dome all the way down to the valley and the old logging road. The "Sidewalk" is very exposed in places and a slip here would be undesirable to say the least as consequences could be devastating.
A small section of the Granite Sidewalk looking up toward our route
Smedley and Rodney make progress up the Granite Sidewalk
A great view of Green Giant Buttress and some of the awesome flora
Looking back across the valley on the approach we were constantly rewarded with ever expanding views of the surrounding area and crags. When I thought it could get no better we were treated to some clouds moving through which just added a whole new layer of texture to the sky, making a great view fantastic.
Green Giant Buttress
Three O'clock Rock and the Comb Buttress
A wild cloud formation
The valley, clouds and Green Giant Buttress
We finally reached our route and looked around a bit, relaxing on the large grassy ledge at the base and prepared ourselves and gear for the upcoming goodness.
We started our climb a little to the right of the actual route and climbed diagonally up and left to reach the route proper at the top of the first pitch.
The photo below shows a foreshortened view of our route, which goes to the shady corner on the left side of the frame and continues up the corner system on slabs for four pitches to some broken ground and then four or so more pitches up to the skyline.
Westward Ho follows the corner on the left up to the skyline
Smedley takes the beginning pitch
Following Smedleys lead
My turn on the sharp end and the blank slabs ahead
Almost done with the pitch and looking down at my buddies
Smedley following the third pitch
Making the moves
Friction on clean white granite
We reached the top of the ridge after a very long and hot day in the sun. We had all agreed at the start of the day that six o'clock was the turn around time. We reached the top at five forty five. Smedley and I discussed options for continuing the last forty feet or so to the actual summit but I for one was wiped out and Smedley was none to eager to climb the last section as it looked a little spicy and the traverse alternative on the back side hung on an overhanging wall that fell hundreds of feet if not more to the rocks below. It took all I had to belly crawl over to the edge and try to snap some photos. I wanted nothing to do with it.
We decided to have our summit beer here and call it good.
Then began the long descent via rappel and downclimb.
The top of one of many rappels. The Granite Sidewalk is the tongue of rock that dissapears into the green below.
Goofing off waiting for us to rappel
We made it to the cars somewhere around eight o'clock or so exhausted and sunburned but happy to have had such great success on such a fantastic climb.
